Two Americans Establish New Climb in Indian Himalayas

“IFMGA guides Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau just made what they believe to be the first ascent of Rungofarka (6,495m) in the Northern Indian Himalayas. The pair completed the climb in five days from their base camp (3,900m), and had three bivies on route.

Crux pitch on day 2: an M6 iced up groove led to steep rock climbing, Villanueva writes. The fluted face they used to access the ridge is below his feet in the shadows. Photo: Alan Rousseau.
Crux pitch on day 2: an M6 iced up groove led to steep rock climbing, Villanueva writes. The fluted face they used to access the ridge is below his feet in the shadows. Photo: Alan Rousseau.
“Our route, which was on the North Ridge of the peak, had difficulties around VI WI4+ M6 1,200m and was fairly sustained at that,” Villanueva writes in an email to Rock and Ice. “Our expedition was supported by the Copp-Dash Inspire Award and the Mugs Stump Award.”

After winning the awards this year, the climbers chose Rungofarka off of a list of peaks that were opened to climbing by the Indian government in 2009. According to Villanueva, the list of peaks are predominantly in Jammu and Kashmir, an area that has been the political and military scene of conflict between Pakistan and India.”

For the complete story and photos go to: Rock and Ice

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